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1)
Before loading the rail onto the ties, you need to pre-bend any rail
that makes up a curved portion of track. It is recommended that
curves are made with the Sunset Valley Railbender. This puts a
constant and even radius bend right up to the end of the rail.
2) Load
rail onto the ties. Start by removing any burrs on the end of the rail
with a small file. Set up a work space of 8-10 ft and lay a tie strip
on the surface. Slide the rail through the ties. Place another tie
strip against the first, making sure the spacer tabs mate together,
and repeat. Once the first rail is on all 6 tie strips the second can
now be threaded. If a rail is stiff, check once more for burrs. WD-40
is also helpful.
3)
When laying track, we recommend you stagger the joints at least 1
ft, preferably 3ft. This is especially beneficial on curves, the curve
is much smoother. It was standard practice among most railroads for
the same reason.
4)
Slide a rail joiner on the end of the rail. Cut the spike heads off
with a sharp knife under the joiner, as shown.
     
5)
Leave a .060-.080” (1.5-2mm) gap between rails as you proceed. This
allows for thermal expansion. A 6 ft stainless steel rail expands
.048” (1mm) between 30ºF
and 100ºF,
nickel silver .049”, brass .052” and aluminum .066”. The rail
temperature can exceed 150°F
on a hot sunny day
6) There
are many methods of mounting the track to the base. We recommend
screwing it down every 2-3 ft through the centerline strip. Ballasting
is optional, if used it will cover the screwheads and make the track
look very realistic.
7) When
using rail clamps, do not screw the track down. You must allow the
track to ‘float’ in the ballast or on the track bed for thermal
expansion. You do not need to put in expansion gaps as the rails are
fixed to the clamps, Do not over tighten the stainless screw as in
time the clamp will crack or break. |
